The Sandolo: Venice’s Forgotten Boat Making a Quiet Comeback

Published

2 months ago

November 8, 2024

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The Sandolo: Venice’s Forgotten Boat Making a Quiet Comeback

In the tranquil morning hours in Venice, as the city slowly awakens, Luca Padoan stands by the Rio della Misericordia, watching the narrow streets and canals come to life. As tourists approach to photograph the handmade sandolo moored beside him, Padoan takes the opportunity to share the history of the boat.

“This is not a gondola,” he explains, “but its progenitor.” Padoan’s sandolo is a rare sight in a city dominated by gondolas, but it’s a boat with deep roots in Venetian history.

Historically, the sandolo, characterized by its flat-bottomed design and steel “curl” at the prow, was crucial to navigating the shallow waters of the Venetian lagoon. Unlike the gondola, which has been used primarily for transportation and tourism, the sandolo played a versatile role. It was used for fishing, hunting, racing, and transporting goods across the lagoon to the Italian mainland.

Valentino Scarpa, who manages the nine remaining stazi (stations) where sandolos still operate, explains the boat’s historical significance. “The lagoon was once incredibly shallow, and regular boats couldn’t navigate it,” he says. “Sandoli were essential for carrying Venetians and their goods.”

The sandolo’s design is more practical than its more famous counterpart. While gondolas have two pointed ends, a design that reflects the Grand Canal’s curve, sandoli have a painted, asymmetrical prow and a flat stern. This structure allows the rower to stand in the middle of the boat, offering better weight distribution, increased speed, and the ability to carry heavier loads.

Though both boats are rowed with a single oar, the sandolo’s design also enables the use of two oars, a technique known as voga alla vaesana. This method was historically used in areas of the lagoon for fish farming.

Livio Bon, a sandolo rower, adds, “Every family once owned a sandolo. It was the primary means of transport and fishing in the city.”

However, as gondolas became easier to row and more suited to Venice’s small canals, sandolos began to fade. “The gondola became more popular, and the number of sandoli in the lagoon decreased,” explains Scarpa. Today, only 20 sandolo rowers, or sandolisti, remain in Venice, compared to 433 gondoliers.

Yet, for those few remaining sandolisti, riding a sandolo offers a unique way to experience the city. “It’s the authentic Venice,” says Chiara Favaro, the daughter of a sandolo rower. “The sandolista tells you stories passed down from generation to generation.”

Padoan, who began learning the craft at seven with his grandfather, continues the tradition today. “It’s a family business,” he says, preparing his boat for the season. For visitors, a ride in a sandolo offers a glimpse into Venice’s past, navigating hidden canals and landmarks that gondolas cannot reach, such as the Jewish Ghetto and the Ponte dei Greci.

In an age where mass tourism often crowds the city’s main attractions, the sandolo provides a rare, intimate connection with Venice’s historical soul.

Travel

Discover Europe’s Most Unique Folk Festivals: Tradition and Fire

Published

3 days ago

December 25, 2024

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Europe is home to some of the world’s most fascinating folk festivals, steeped in centuries-old traditions and customs. These festivals, often overlooked in favor of more mainstream celebrations, offer an immersive experience into local culture, folklore, and community spirit. From ancient pagan rituals to modernized folk practices, these events provide a glimpse into Europe’s rich cultural heritage.

Surva: Bulgaria’s Ancient Festival to Banish Evil

In the heart of Bulgaria, the Surva Festival, held in early January, celebrates a tradition that dates back thousands of years. The festival, particularly vibrant in the town of Pernik, is marked by the ‘kukeri’—dancers dressed in intimidating animal masks, fur suits, and bells, who parade through the streets to drive away evil spirits and usher in good health and fortune for the year. The festival, recognized by UNESCO, includes torch-lit processions, singing, and dancing. The International Festival of the Masked Games, held during the last weekend of January in Pernik, further showcases this centuries-old ritual through grand parades and competitions.

San Antón Festival: Fire and Blessings in Andalusia

From January 16 to 18, Andalusia’s villages come alive with the San Antón Festival, celebrating Saint Anthony, the patron saint of animals. Rooted in 800 years of tradition, the festival features bonfires, folk dances, and a quirky ritual of blessing pets, from dogs to hamsters. The festival’s origins trace back to the 13th century when farmers believed that burning olive branches and baskets could protect their animals and crops from pests. Today, locals gather to celebrate with music, food, and dancing around the fires, while pet owners have their animals blessed in local churches. The festival, which spans multiple Andalusian towns, includes a unique 10-kilometer night run in Jaén.

Up Helly Aa: Scotland’s Viking Fire Festival

One of Europe’s youngest and most electrifying festivals, Up Helly Aa, takes place on the last Tuesday of January in Lerwick on Scotland’s Shetland Islands. Celebrating the island’s Viking heritage, the festival features a torch-lit procession, where participants dressed in Viking costumes march through the streets before setting fire to a replica Viking longship. The festival, which began in the 18th century and formalized in 1870, now includes parades, feasts, and even the participation of women and girls in the traditionally male-dominated torchlit procession.

Dragobete: Romania’s Day of Love

For a more authentic celebration of love, Romania’s Dragobete festival, held on February 24, offers a unique alternative to Valentine’s Day. Rooted in ancient Romanian folklore, Dragobete is the son of Baba Dochia and the Dacian god of love. During the festival, young people gather to pick spring flowers, with wild strawberries considered especially lucky. In a charming tradition, boys chase girls who run back to the village, and if a connection is made, they kiss to signify their love. Engaged couples often emerge from the festival, but singles can also enjoy cultural events and performances across cities like Bucharest.

Sechseläuten: Zurich’s Fiery Farewell to Winter

Europe’s winter festivals often center around fire, and Zurich’s Sechseläuten on the third Monday of April is a spectacular example. The festival marks the unofficial end of winter, with guilds parading through the city, culminating in the burning of the Böögg, a snowman-like figure stuffed with explosives. The tradition holds that the faster the fire reaches the Böögg’s head and causes it to explode, the better the coming summer will be. This fiery ritual, which draws crowds from all over, symbolizes the city’s hope for warmth and good fortune in the months to come.

From ancient rituals to modern celebrations, these festivals offer a deep dive into Europe’s diverse traditions and the timeless spirit of community.

Travel

Barcelona Pushes Back on Overtourism with New Measures for 2025

Published

5 days ago

December 23, 2024

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Barcelona, Spain’s most visited city, is taking decisive action to tackle overtourism, which has caused mounting tensions between locals and tourists. With over 15 million annual visitors drawn by its iconic architecture, vibrant culture, and seaside location, the city has introduced a series of measures to prioritize residents’ quality of life and promote sustainable tourism.

Crackdown on Short-Term Rentals

In June, Barcelona’s City Council announced a bold plan to phase out tourist flat licenses by 2028, aiming to alleviate the city’s housing crisis. Although no new licenses have been issued since 2014, the nearly 10,000 existing units have kept rent prices high for locals.

“We want to guarantee the right to live in Barcelona,” said Mayor Jaume Collboni, emphasizing the need for housing reform.

However, the tourism industry has pushed back. The Barcelona Association of Tourist Apartments warned that restricting licenses could drive up illegal rentals and hurt the city’s tourism-dependent economy. Legal challenges have also emerged, with the European Holiday Home Association filing a complaint with the European Commission, arguing that the plan violates service provision laws.

Protests and Rising Tensions

Protests against overtourism reached a boiling point in July, with thousands of locals chanting “tourists go home” and symbolically shutting down hotels and restaurants. Activists, like Martí Cusó of the Association of Neighbours of the Gothic Quarter, called for a shift toward an economic model less reliant on mass tourism.

In November, further demonstrations against high rents highlighted overtourism as a contributing factor, reflecting deep frustration among residents.

Tourist Tax and Transportation Measures

Barcelona has also increased its tourist tax, which funds infrastructure, cleaning, and security. By October, the levy rose to €7.50 per night for guests in luxury accommodations, marking a push for “quality tourism.”

Transportation changes were also implemented. The city council removed the overcrowded Route 116 bus from Google Maps to prioritize local access and announced plans to quadruple parking fees for tourist buses around landmarks like the Sagrada Família.

Looking Ahead to 2025

Despite the challenges, Barcelona’s Tourism Consortium remains optimistic. A spokesperson assured that the city remains welcoming and sustainable, emphasizing collaboration between residents and visitors.

While new regulations, such as doubling ticket prices for Park Güell, are being considered, officials believe a balance can be struck. Barcelona aims to foster responsible tourism by encouraging cultural experiences, sustainable transport, and respect for public spaces.

With its blend of innovation and tradition, Barcelona is determined to redefine its tourism model, ensuring a harmonious coexistence between locals and visitors.

Travel

Vin Chaud: A French Holiday Tradition That Warms Hearts and Homes

Published

6 days ago

December 22, 2024

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As the holiday season sweeps through France, the unmistakable scent of vin chaud fills the air at Christmas markets, bistro bars, and street stands across the country. This warm, spiced wine has become synonymous with festive cheer, with its rich blend of cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, cardamom, and star anise drawing locals and tourists alike to enjoy a comforting cup.

“Everybody says they have their own recipe for vin chaud – and the best recipe – but it’s usually the same ingredients: cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, cardamom, and star anise added to wine with a little sugar,” says Lisa Rotoni, bartender at the renowned Little Red Door cocktail bar in Paris’s Marais district. While recipes can vary, with some opting for white wine or adding cognac for a bit of extra warmth, vin chaud is mostly enjoyed once a year during the Christmas season.

For many, vin chaud is a tradition tied to the Christmas markets, where the drink is often served from slow cookers, filling the air with its warming aroma. In Lyon, for example, restaurant Le Mercière serves its vin chaud with Beaujolais nouveau wine, adding a splash of crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur from Burgundy) to the classic spice mix. “The smoke and the delicious smell attract people,” says Marie Ponsonnet, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, César.

Rotoni, who grew up in Saint-Ouen, a Paris suburb known for its flea market, recalls fond memories of visiting the grand Christmas market on the Champs-Élysées with her grandmother. “The aroma of vin chaud is one that I remember and love,” she says. “It links to memories of Christmas, winter, comfort, and coming inside.”

Historically, vin chaud dates back to the Romans, who first combined wine, spices, and honey or sugar. Over the centuries, the drink evolved, with variations like glühwein in Germany, glögg in Scandinavia, and mulled wine in the UK. By the mid-18th century, vin chaud was used as a medicinal tonic, believed to aid in healing wounds and fighting the common cold. It wasn’t until the 19th century that people began preparing the drink at home.

Despite its simple ingredients, vin chaud can be tricky to make. “It can be overcooked and get really bitter,” Rotoni warns, advising to choose a fruity vin de table that’s neither too cheap nor too high-end. She adds, “Vin chaud is served everywhere except cocktail bars, maybe because they don’t always have the space for heating drinks.”

While some might view vin chaud as an old-fashioned drink, it continues to be a seasonal staple at parties and Christmas markets. A few years ago, Rotoni even created a cold version of the drink at Little Red Door, giving a modern twist to this beloved holiday tradition while still retaining its cozy, warming spirit.