The Sandolo: Venice’s Forgotten Boat Making a Quiet Comeback
In the tranquil morning hours in Venice, as the city slowly awakens, Luca Padoan stands by the Rio della Misericordia, watching the narrow streets and canals come to life. As tourists approach to photograph the handmade sandolo moored beside him, Padoan takes the opportunity to share the history of the boat.
“This is not a gondola,” he explains, “but its progenitor.” Padoan’s sandolo is a rare sight in a city dominated by gondolas, but it’s a boat with deep roots in Venetian history.
Historically, the sandolo, characterized by its flat-bottomed design and steel “curl” at the prow, was crucial to navigating the shallow waters of the Venetian lagoon. Unlike the gondola, which has been used primarily for transportation and tourism, the sandolo played a versatile role. It was used for fishing, hunting, racing, and transporting goods across the lagoon to the Italian mainland.
Valentino Scarpa, who manages the nine remaining stazi (stations) where sandolos still operate, explains the boat’s historical significance. “The lagoon was once incredibly shallow, and regular boats couldn’t navigate it,” he says. “Sandoli were essential for carrying Venetians and their goods.”
The sandolo’s design is more practical than its more famous counterpart. While gondolas have two pointed ends, a design that reflects the Grand Canal’s curve, sandoli have a painted, asymmetrical prow and a flat stern. This structure allows the rower to stand in the middle of the boat, offering better weight distribution, increased speed, and the ability to carry heavier loads.
Though both boats are rowed with a single oar, the sandolo’s design also enables the use of two oars, a technique known as voga alla vaesana. This method was historically used in areas of the lagoon for fish farming.
Livio Bon, a sandolo rower, adds, “Every family once owned a sandolo. It was the primary means of transport and fishing in the city.”
However, as gondolas became easier to row and more suited to Venice’s small canals, sandolos began to fade. “The gondola became more popular, and the number of sandoli in the lagoon decreased,” explains Scarpa. Today, only 20 sandolo rowers, or sandolisti, remain in Venice, compared to 433 gondoliers.
Yet, for those few remaining sandolisti, riding a sandolo offers a unique way to experience the city. “It’s the authentic Venice,” says Chiara Favaro, the daughter of a sandolo rower. “The sandolista tells you stories passed down from generation to generation.”
Padoan, who began learning the craft at seven with his grandfather, continues the tradition today. “It’s a family business,” he says, preparing his boat for the season. For visitors, a ride in a sandolo offers a glimpse into Venice’s past, navigating hidden canals and landmarks that gondolas cannot reach, such as the Jewish Ghetto and the Ponte dei Greci.
In an age where mass tourism often crowds the city’s main attractions, the sandolo provides a rare, intimate connection with Venice’s historical soul.