Split, a coastal city in Croatia, has long been a magnet for party-seeking tourists, especially during major music festivals like Ultra Europe. However, local residents are increasingly expressing their frustration over the impact of this tourism on their daily lives and the economy.

“Lots of younger people come for that—they’re not buyers, they’re only here for partying and alcohol, not islands or tours,” said Vana, an employee at a local cruise company. This influx of short-term visitors has contributed to skyrocketing rental prices, with average rents now ranging between €700 and €800, a significant burden considering the average monthly salary in Split is around €1,000. “It’s becoming harder for younger people to find a flat, start their lives, or have a family,” Vana added, noting that while short-term letting provides extra income in the winter, it becomes prohibitively expensive during the summer months.

In response to rising anti-social behaviors linked to the partying scene, city officials have increased police presence to address issues like public drinking and inappropriate behavior. “We don’t want to be known as a party destination,” said Veronica, a recent graduate and tour operator. “There used to be more restaurants and cafes serving local food, but now they mostly serve tourist fare.”

The transformation of Split’s landscape is evident to many. “The promenade had a lot more local cafes and restaurants. Now it’s mostly Italian and burger places, even though Croatians excel at their own cuisine,” remarked Luce, another local tour operator. The iconic Diocletian’s Palace area, once home to independent shops, has shifted to predominantly short-term rentals catering to tourists.

Tourism workers acknowledge the benefits of the influx but remain concerned about its downsides. “Tourism in Split is good, especially in the Old Town, which has seen significant renovations,” said Ivana, a guesthouse receptionist. However, she added, many locals have been displaced from their homes in the Old Town due to rising property costs.

Veronica observed a noticeable change in the type of tourists visiting. “Locals don’t like to hang out in the city center much because it’s so full and expensive. We mostly spread out across Split,” she explained. She reminisced about the past, saying, “There used to be a lot nicer, polite tourists with families. We have no problem with tourists like this, but this summer, they were nowhere to be seen.”

Despite the challenges, residents recognize the importance of tourism to Split’s economy. “We depend almost entirely on tourism, which isn’t ideal, but it is what it is,” said a local shopkeeper. Many residents rely on the summer season for their annual income, while the winter months bring significantly fewer visitors and job opportunities.

In light of these tensions, local authorities are taking steps to manage tourism more sustainably. The Split Tourist Board commissioned a study in 2022 to assess the city’s capacity to handle the influx of 900,000 tourists annually. Based on these findings, officials are beginning to regulate accommodation options and have increased security measures to address anti-social behavior.

The city is also promoting responsible tourism through initiatives like the “Respect & Enjoy” campaign, aimed at encouraging visitors to be mindful of local customs and to travel outside peak seasons. The Tourist Board of Split emphasized their commitment to balancing a thriving tourism industry with the quality of life for residents, striving for sustainable development that benefits both tourists and locals alike.

For nearly 20 years, the European Commission and Italy have been locked in a legal battle over the country’s beach concession practices, with the EU accusing Italy of breaching competition rules and lacking transparency. This conflict, which has seen resistance from various Italian governments, is set to reach a turning point as Italy faces a deadline to comply with EU directives by early 2025.

The European Commission has long criticized Italy’s approach to beach concessions, which has allowed existing operators to renew their agreements indefinitely, stifling competition. Despite EU calls for competitive tendering, Italian administrations—whether left- or right-leaning—have consistently resisted these reforms. The most recent extension, granted by the far-right government of Giorgia Meloni, extends current concessions until the end of this year, leaving Rome with no further options to avoid compliance.

Susanna Barbadoro, representing the third generation of beach concession owners in Ostia, expressed frustration over the uncertainty of the transition. “We are in a phase of total uncertainty and we want our rights to be preserved,” she said. The beach concession system has been criticized for fostering a monopolistic environment, with family-owned businesses maintaining control over prime locations along Italy’s coast.

The cost of beach access varies significantly across Italy. At basic establishments, renting two chaise lounges and an umbrella for the day can cost €25, while luxury resorts in places like Capri or Salento can charge several hundred euros. Beach operators argue that they have invested heavily in maintaining and upgrading their facilities and are seeking compensation or pre-emption rights in future tenders.

Economists, however, argue that these operators have long benefited from their privileged status, contributing only a small portion of their revenues to the state. According to the Italian Court of Auditors, from 2016 to 2020, the state received around €97 million annually from 12,166 beach concessions. With average revenues of €260,000 per concession, operators have paid an average of only €7,600 annually.

Pietro Paganini, an economist, argues that competition would benefit everyone, particularly since these concessions are on public land. “Italian governments have protected these owners for years due to their significant voting bloc,” he said.

In a final attempt to justify its non-compliance with the 2006 Bolkestein directive, which aims to boost competition, the Meloni government presented a mapping report to Brussels. The report claimed that 33% of the Italian coastline is under concession, arguing there is no need for competitive tenders. However, EU officials noted that the mapping included unsuitable areas like rocky shores, which do not meet the criteria for concessions.

The association “Mare Libero” (Free Sea), which has advocated for free beach access since 2019, hopes the new bidding rules will ensure sufficient public access. Roberto del Bove, coordinator for the central Lazio region, called for the state to guarantee at least 50% of beaches remain free to the public, with the remainder available for concession.