As the holiday season sweeps through France, the unmistakable scent of vin chaud fills the air at Christmas markets, bistro bars, and street stands across the country. This warm, spiced wine has become synonymous with festive cheer, with its rich blend of cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, cardamom, and star anise drawing locals and tourists alike to enjoy a comforting cup.
“Everybody says they have their own recipe for vin chaud – and the best recipe – but it’s usually the same ingredients: cinnamon, cloves, orange peel, cardamom, and star anise added to wine with a little sugar,” says Lisa Rotoni, bartender at the renowned Little Red Door cocktail bar in Paris’s Marais district. While recipes can vary, with some opting for white wine or adding cognac for a bit of extra warmth, vin chaud is mostly enjoyed once a year during the Christmas season.
For many, vin chaud is a tradition tied to the Christmas markets, where the drink is often served from slow cookers, filling the air with its warming aroma. In Lyon, for example, restaurant Le Mercière serves its vin chaud with Beaujolais nouveau wine, adding a splash of crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur from Burgundy) to the classic spice mix. “The smoke and the delicious smell attract people,” says Marie Ponsonnet, who co-owns the restaurant with her husband, César.
Rotoni, who grew up in Saint-Ouen, a Paris suburb known for its flea market, recalls fond memories of visiting the grand Christmas market on the Champs-Élysées with her grandmother. “The aroma of vin chaud is one that I remember and love,” she says. “It links to memories of Christmas, winter, comfort, and coming inside.”
Historically, vin chaud dates back to the Romans, who first combined wine, spices, and honey or sugar. Over the centuries, the drink evolved, with variations like glühwein in Germany, glögg in Scandinavia, and mulled wine in the UK. By the mid-18th century, vin chaud was used as a medicinal tonic, believed to aid in healing wounds and fighting the common cold. It wasn’t until the 19th century that people began preparing the drink at home.
Despite its simple ingredients, vin chaud can be tricky to make. “It can be overcooked and get really bitter,” Rotoni warns, advising to choose a fruity vin de table that’s neither too cheap nor too high-end. She adds, “Vin chaud is served everywhere except cocktail bars, maybe because they don’t always have the space for heating drinks.”
While some might view vin chaud as an old-fashioned drink, it continues to be a seasonal staple at parties and Christmas markets. A few years ago, Rotoni even created a cold version of the drink at Little Red Door, giving a modern twist to this beloved holiday tradition while still retaining its cozy, warming spirit.
